I realized that I forgot to add rounded edges to both the forward and aft corners of the port settee backs. So I cut the 90 degrees out, fabricated a couple of white ash quarter rounds, and slapped them in place.
Here's the forward corner near the mast.
The aft corner near the yet-to-be-designed nav station. Pre mod.
I cut the corner off, then beveled a piece of white ash to the 45 degree entry angles. This allowed me to trim the cabinet with higher confidence. Note that because the seat back slopes at 10 degrees, this is not a true 90 turn from face to side. The geometric calculations were beyond me, so I just got close and let thickened epoxy do the rest.
It came out just fine.
Here we have the starboard settee back getting its cleats. My truck in was in the shop for over a month waiting parts (Covid supply chain issues are world-wide), so I was thrilled to finally get it back and be able to pick up some more plywood stock.
And there are the fiddly bit getting painted up.
I went with some basic support structure behind this settee - a set of stringers glassed to the hull and four fore & aft braces.
Another week of work and the settee is mostly together.
Over in the head, I spent a lot of time getting the sole layout right. It will be the floor of a shower, and so needs to drain forward and well under the lip to the door. Emptying the sump, which is just the space under the head sole, will be done with a simple barrel pump. I want to be able to remove the sole thing for cleaning, with no complicated corners to catch gunk. So I beveled some cleats close to the hull angle, wrapped them in plastic packing tape, and set them into an epoxy mush held flat and flush to the underside of the fitted sole.
When cured, I popped the cleats off and used the mush as witness marks to really slop on the thickened epoxy muck and glue them down.
The fit came in nearly perfectly. I only spent about half an hour sanding down a high spot on the aft side of the forward most cleat section.
I cut the hull edge off the sole, glued it to the cleats, applied more filler and sanded it fair. This will get glassed into the hull with a layer or two of the 1200 biaxial tape. I have no idea what the cabinetry will look like above this: it needs to be water proof and allow for insulation... Another set of decisions.
I'm happy with the result so far. There's more work to do here with drain holes and waterproofing the piece, but this was good progress.
I think this is the first time I've been in the V-berth in two years. The aft half-bulkhead still needed tabbing on the forward side, so I did that. I cut cleats and installed them all around the top edges, including against the hull. (Not installed yet in this photo.)
I added in a fore-aft bulkhead in the aft most section.
It will be the back of a shelf snuck under the v-berth top. I also fitted a little sole area at about a half inch proud of the door opening. The door trim should make this transition smooth. It's about a 1.5 inch step up from the step up at the mast step. Follow that? Headroom gets low, so I've banged mine about 30 times in the last week working on this. Also, with the D-shaped doorway into the v-berth, I keep catching my shoulder on the sharp edge. I'll have to make the trim very round and forgiving.
This wool hat, though a bit hot in the summer, has saved my scalp from several stiches, I think. There's that sharp doorway on the far right side of the photo.
The berth tops are cut and fitted.
On a nice day, I spent four hours cutting and hammering out the old cutlass bearing.
It put up a fight, but eventually yielded. After I discovered a very important tool:
These things make a difference.
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